G is for: Glycerine

I had an awareness that glycerine was a useful ingredient before I started to research this post.  Then I discovered a range of applications that was far wider than I suspected.  In the process of researching glycerine I turned up a couple of useful, and fascinating, resources.  I learned from one of them that the Glycerine Producers’ Association in the US had identified 1,583 different uses for glycerine by 1949.

I’ll explore some of the wider uses of glycerine later , and in a couple of sidebars.  But to begin I’ll give a description of it and relate its properties to cosmetic and culinary uses.

Glycerine is more dense than water

Glycerine is a clear liquid, almost colourless, odourless, viscous, and denser than water.  It has a specific gravity of  approximately 1.25.  It is hygroscopic (attracts water) and for all effective purposes it is not toxic to human health or the environment.  These two properties, its affinity for water and its absence of toxic effects on human physiology, make glycerine such a useful cosmetic ingredient.

There are other chemicals that share some of the properties of glycerine, but which are not so benign.  Here’s a sidebar about one of them.

Cosmetic uses

In cosmetics and culinary applications, glycerine is described as “humectant”.  It traps moisture and prevents drying.  It is added to cake icings (frostings) to prevent them drying out and becoming hard and brittle.  The same property is used when glycerine is used as a skin moisturiser.  Glycerine is absorbed in the surface of skin and it is remarkably persistent, remaining detectable for days rather than hours.  It draws in and holds moisture.  It should always be mixed with a little water before it is applied to skin, otherwise it will dry it out rather then moisturising it.

I use glycerine in intensive hand cremes, including Heavy Duty Hand Creme and Rescue Hand Creme.  It also appears in the recipe for Lammas Lotion and Pumpable Body Lotion.  It is the wetting agent in #53 Insanitizer – a hand sanitizer based on the World Health Organization recipe for hand sanitizer.

Glycerine has been used in skin tonics and serums since the early nineteenth century.  William B Dick’s Encyclopaedia of Practical Receipts and Processes, published by Dick and Fitzgerald in New York and appearing in their 1866 catalogue, contains three recipes for glycerine and rose water tonics.  The recipes only vary in the proportion of glycerine to rose water.  I have recipes for both a tonic and a more intensive serum.

The history of Glycerine

My source for much of the history of glycerine was documents published on the website of the American Cleaning Institute.  Although it isn’t well signposted, at the bottom of the ACI homepage there is a link to “SCIENCE”.  The archives contain peer reviewed papers, many of which are scanned historical documents that won’t normally turn up in a web search.

The history of glycerine begins with its discovery in 1779 by K W Scheerle, a swedish chemist .  Scheerle’s method produced glycerine as a by-product of making soap.  The empirical formula for glycerine, C3H8O3, was determined by a French chemist Pelouse in 1836.  The structural formula, C3H5(0H)3, was not established until 1883, by Berthelot and Lucea.

Glycerine in Soap

Glycerine is still produced as a by-product of soap-making.  A lower grade of glycerine is also produced in greater quantities as a by-product of biodiesel.

Although glycerine is normally removed from soap, it can be left in the finished product or added at a later stage in processing.  Pears soap was first produced in a factory close to Oxford Street in London in 1807.  Pears soap gets its characteristic transparency from the glycerine remaining in the soap, and from the use of alcohol (methanol) in the production process.

The addition of glycerine, alcohol and sugar to a soap base can produce an almost perfectly transparent soap.

Funding Nobel Prizes

Not all applications of glycerine are as gentle as Pears soap.

Even before the structural formula of glycerine was known, glycerine had been chemically converted into trinitroglycerine.  Trinitroglycerine is both highly explosive and highly unstable.  Its tendency to explode spontaneously rendered it useless as a practical explosive until Alfred Nobel invented a way of stabilising it in 1866.  Nobel called his invention dynamite.  With the invention of dynamite, glycerine became both economically and industrially significant.

Here’s a sidebar on nitroglycerine.

Frog’s Breath

(Insect Repellent)

Cathy Keifer/Shutterstock

One of the consequences of making cosmetics and perfumes at home is that you start to acquire a collection of bottles.  You never throw out a bottle that might be useful, or decorative.  There is a reason for you to rummage through charity shops and flea markets.  You struggle to find storage space for an ever expanding selection of oil bottles, lab reagent bottles, coloured bottles, decorated bottles, poison bottles, perfume bottles, hand-blown bottles, and bottles with no discernible purpose.

My collection contained one quite plain bottle with a label proclaiming that the content was Frog’s Breath.

It occurred to me that Frog’s Breath would be a most appropriate name for an insect repellent.  For the grammar nerds, the reasoning includes subjunctive and conditional verbs:

If a fly were to feel the breath of a frog it would want to depart in haste.

I really dislike using DEET based insect repellents.  The smell is something I really dislike, and it makes me sneeze.  I can’t enjoy eating out of doors in the presence of the smell of DEET.  I’ve found Frog’s Breath is as effective as DEET, and I can tailor the smell of Frog’s Breath to be reasonably pleasant.  I’ve successfully used Frog’s Breath to deter mosquitos, ticks, and the sand flies that are too small to see but which cause misery by attacking feet and ankles.

Making Frog’s Breath

I don’t really have a specific recipe for my Frog’s Breath.  It has just two ingredients:

Isopropyl Alcohol (70% by volume with water)
A selection of essential oils.

Most airlines will allow you to carry small quantities of liquids containing up to 70% alcohol in cabin and hold luggage.  Higher concentrations have a lower flash point, meaning they catch fire more easily, and airlines may refuse to carry them.

I aim for the essential oil content to be about 5%, so 5 ml of essential oils to 95 ml of alcohol.  Approximately 100 drops of oil is 5 ml.

Choosing Essential Oils

The choice of essential oils can be almost arbitrary, but here are a few considerations:

The mixture will be sprayed directly onto skin.  If you are aware that your skin is sensitive to any oil, avoid adding it to your insect repellent.

I don’t know of any essential oil that attracts insects.  Most are effective repellents.

Phototoxicity

Some essential oils are phototoxic.  In very simple terms that means that they have the direct opposite effect to sunscreen – they decrease the amount of time you can safely spend in the sun when applied to your skin.  The effect is minimal at low concentrations.  I’ve used small quantities of some of the potentially phototoxic oils listed below, but I’d advise you to avoid them if you have very fair or sensitive skin:

Angelica root
Bergamot
Cassia
Cumin
Ginger
Lemon
Lime
Lovage
Mandarin
Orange
Verbena.

Making Frog’s Breath is an opportunity to use up the last few drops of oil in a bottle, or to turnover stocks of oils that may be starting to deteriorate.  Here’s a list of the oils used in one batch of Frog’s Breath:

Oils that are Head Notes in perfumery are less persistent.  Try to include Heart Notes and Base Notes so that your insect repellent is effective for longer and you don’t need to re-apply it so frequently.

Patchouli is an effective insect repellent, a Base Note, and manages to harmonise the most unlikely mixtures of essential oils into something that smells better than an unplanned hodge-podge.  It’s also one of the less expensive essential oils.  I aim to include 30% to 50% patchouli in the oils in my Frog’s Breath.

I have a small bottle of isopropyl alcohol that I use to rinse droppers and pipettes that I’ve used for essential oils.  When the alcohol starts to get a bit murky and droplets of oil collect on the surface, I replace the alcohol in the bottle and keep the used alcohol for making insect repellent.

It’s very likely that some of the oils will settle on the surface of the alcohol, especially if you include heavier Base Notes like patchouli.  This isn’t a problem because you can disperse the oils through the alcohol by shaking the bottle before use.

Using Frog’s Breath

I decant my insect repellent into 50 ml bottles for use.  I put a screw top on the bottles for travelling, and carry a spray top to use when I get to my destination.

To use Frog’s Breath, first shake the bottle to disperse the oils in the alcohol.  Avoid getting it in your eyes while spraying it onto your skin or in your hair.  It should be okay to spray it onto clothing, particularly natural fibres.  Some technical fabrics may show traces of oils, so probably best to avoid spraying them unless you can test where an oil stain won’t show.

 

L is for: Lavender

Matt Gibson/Shutterstock

Lavender has made an appearance with me several times in the last month.

Even if you think you know nothing of herbalism, you probably know that people use sachets of dried lavender flowers to discourage moths from damaging woollen and linen fabrics.  If you think you know nothing of aromatherapy, you probably still know that the smell of lavender helps people to relax and sleep.

Cultivation

There are 47 registered species of lavandula, for which the common name is lavender.  Lavandula is a member of the mint family of plants.  Lavender has cosmetic, medicinal and culinary uses.  It was prized by the ancient Greeks and the Romans.  The name Lavender is derived from the Latin verb lavare, to wash.  English Lavender has a sweeter flavour for culinary use.  Dutch Lavender yields an oil which is richer in a family of chemicals called terpenes, which include camphor.  Dutch lavender has a more bitter taste, but is more effective in deterring moths.  Most lavender species have uses in perfumery.

Lavender is grown commercially, mostly for the production of lavender essential oil.  It is native to India, the Middle East, to many Mediterranean and North African countries, to Europe and the Canary Islands.  Bulgaria is the largest commercial producer.  Provence in France is well-known for its lavender fields.  There are English lavender farms in the Cotswolds and around London.

MIllie
Photo by Paula Tales
Lavender oils and salves

My first engagement with lavender this year was prompted by the plight of Millie.  Millie is a horse.  Her face had been savaged by flies, especially around her mouth and eyes.  P asked me if I could produce a salve that would soothe the bites and discourage further insect bites.  The result was lavender infused olive oil, lavender salve, and lavender & patchouli salve.

I acquired a package of 500g of dried lavender flowers from Provence to make lavender oil and Millie’s salves.  The recipes used 100g, leaving me with plenty for other experiments.

Lavender Ice Cream

My second encounter with lavender was at Cotswold Lavender, at Snowshill in Worcestershire.

Cotswold Lavender
Chee Hoong Loh/Shutterstock

The lavender fields are picturesque in June and July, so much so that they are a favourite venue for photography.  When they are open to the public, they quickly fill with groups smiling at phones and cameras.  I visited with parents who have taken annual photographs of their child in the lavender fields.  The child, now three years old, was not in a mood to co-operate this year.  I went to the gift shop in search of ice cream to bribe the child and sooth frustrated adults.

I bought a selection of ice-cream flavours and offered them around.  The lavender flavour remained un-chosen, left for me.  Given the setting, I thought lavender ice cream would be a good choice.  It seems the rest of the party knew better, and I found it bland and disappointing.  I challenged myself to do better.  The result of my challenge is my version of a recipe for lavender ice cream.

I certainly plan to repeat the ice cream, and I’ll make some more lavender infused oil.  I’ll still have about half of the dried flowers left, so I’m looking for other uses.  I’m considering a lavender syrup, a lavender cordial (perhaps with some hedgerow fruit) and lavender lip-balm.

When my still is up and running I may prepare lavender toilet waters, but that’s for another time.