D is for: Damiana

I started writing about a seasonal perfume for Ostaria, or Ēostre, or Easter, or the Vernal Equinox, or the Spring Equinox, or however you may choose to mark that part of the year.  Partway through I realised that a significant part of the post was about Damiana.

H. Zell / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0

Damiana (Turnera Diffusa) is a small shrub that is native to parts of Central and South America, certain States in the south of the United States, and some Caribbean islands.  It belongs to the plant family Passifloraceae, the same family as the Passion Flower and Passion Fruit.  This gives a clue as to the main uses of Damiana – it is reputed to be a powerful aphrodisiac.

Herbal uses of Damiana

I say “reputed to be an aphrodisiac” because the evidence is almost entirely in folklore.  There’s very little clinical evidence, and it appears inconclusive.  I’ve found one study in 2009 which dealt with the sexual performance of male rats, which reported a positive result in a small sample population.  Most other studies have looked at the efficacy of herbal blends in which Damiana was present.  Other components of these blends included ginseng, ginkgo, guarana and vitamins.

The lack of conclusive clinical evidence doesn’t affect the popularity of Damiana in herbal products.  Health stores such as Holland and Barrett in the UK sell Damiana leaf in capsule. Baldwins sell Damiana as a tincture.

Although most preparations including Damiana use the dried leaves, either in capsules or as a herb tea, or even a herbal smoking mixture, an essential oil can be produced from the leaves and woody part of the plant by steam distillation.  This essential oil appears in a limited selection of essential oil catalogues.   Many essential oil reference books don’t list it.  (You won’t find it in the Aqua Oleum range, or at Neal’s Yard, at Naissance or even Mystic Moments.  There are no suppliers of Damiana essential oil supplying through Amazon UK at the time of writing.)  A web search will turn up some suppliers, but a word of caution – some of the oils that are offered are either essential oils that have been diluted with a carrier, or the herb has been diffused into a base oil (so not an essential oil at all).

DAMIANA AS FRAGRANCE

My interest in Damiana essential oil gives a brief nod to the fact that festivals celebrating with eggs and rabbits were never really chaste.  Its potential aphrodisiac properties suggested it as a component in a seasonal perfume for the Spring Equinox.  I chose to use it as the starting point in developing my seasonal fragrance.

Damiana has been used in commercial perfumes.  Fragrantica lists two, both produced by boutique perfumiers specialising in natural perfumery.

Damiana has a distinctive, but rather elusive scent.  I’ve seen it listed as a Head note and a Heart note, so that suggests it’s slightly heavier than most Head notes, but at the light end of Heart notes.  The scent is described as “woody or mossy”, and also as “spiced orange”.  I’d lean towards the “woody or mossy” description, but I can appreciate the spiced citrus description too.

My Spring Equinox perfume is intended as fragrance for a cold cream, and I tend to use reduced quantities of Head notes for such applications.  The Heart notes are at the lighter end of that classification.  Litsea Cubea and Melissa reinforce the citrus qualities of the Damiana.  A little Neroli gives just a suggestion of something floral.  Rosemary plays to the Damiana’s wood and spice.  Vetiver underpins all the other notes with persistent wood and spice:

Heart
    • Damiana (10 drops)
    • Litsea Cubea (May Chang) (4 drops)
    • Melissa (4 drops)
    • Rosemary (3 drops)
    • Neroli (3 drops)
Bass
    • Vetiver (6 drops)

This is the second year that I’ve used this blend.  It’s becoming established in my recipe book as Ostara.

 

A is for: (Isopropyl) Alcohol

This is intended as the first of a series of posts in which I discuss (ramble, pontificate) about cosmetic ingredients.  I may dive down the occasional rabbit-hole to explore things that aren’t strictly ingredients.  Let’s just see where this takes us.

I’m starting with A is for Alcohol.  It’s very unlikely that I’ll work through the alphabet, but my plan is to create an alphabetical list as I add other posts.

In this case A is for a specific kind of alcohol.  Its names include isopropyl alcohol, isopropanol,  2-propanol and propan-2-ol depending on the naming convention you follow.  I’m going to stay with isopropyl alcohol.

Americans often refer to isopropyl alcohol as Rubbing Alcohol, possibly to distinguish it from what the British might call quaffing alcohol (ethanol).  Isopropyl alcohol is unpalatable and toxic, so it doesn’t attract the attention of tax collectors to the extent that ethanol does in most countries.  It’s readily available as 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, but it’s more commonly sold as a mixture of 70% isopropyl alcohol and 30% water by volume.  The 70% mixture is good for all the uses I’m going to discuss below.  A litre of 70% isopropyl alcohol should cost no more than GBP 8.00.  I think it’s a good investment.

(In Britain there is a concoction called surgical spirit based on methyl alcohol.  American Rubbing Alcohol and British Surgical Spirit are different.  In many contexts they can be used interchangeably, but some versions of Surgical Spirit include fragrances (notably Wintergreen) and so they aren’t suitable for cosmetic uses.)
Antiseptic

Isopropyl alcohol is used as a topical antiseptic.  If a doctor or nurse swabs your arm before pushing a needle into it, it is likely that they are using isopropyl alcohol.

The main ingredient in pre-packaged antiseptic wipes is normally isopropyl alcohol.  The 70% version is more effective as an antiseptic than the 99.9% version because water opens up the pores of bacteria so the alcohol can penetrate and kill them.  Isopropyl alcohol on cotton wool is good for cleaning minor cuts and skin abraisions.  Somewhere I’ve seen a suggestion that it can be used as an antiseptic on nappy (diaper) rashes and intimate parts of the human anatomy.  I’m sure it would be effective, but I wouldn’t want to be around to hear the scream.  It can sting painfully.

I use isopropyl alcohol as an antiseptic for swabbing down worksurfaces and for spritzing the containers I use for cosmetic preparations.  I have a small bottle with a flip top that I can use to moisten pieces of paper kitchen towel, and I have a small spray bottle that I can use for spritzing.

Solvent

Isopropyl alcohol mixes with many oils and greases, as well as mixing with water.  Isopropyl alcohol (including the 70% version) evaporates completely without leaving a residue.  That makes it a very useful cleaning agent.  Those lens wipes that your optician sells?  They are impregnated with isopropyl alcohol.  That cleaning spray for your whiteboard?  Probably isopropyl alcohol.  That cleaner for your computer screen?  Probably isopropyl alcohol.

I use my spray bottle of isopropyl alcohol, along with either kitchen paper towel or a facial tissue, for cleaning eyeglasses, computer screens, windows and other hard surfaces.  It’s pretty effective on the grime that accumulates on the inside of a car windshield, the kind that makes driving into sunlight rather challenging.

I try to re-use bottles and containers made of glass or plastic.  Removing manufacturers’ labels can be challenging (involving a lot of cursing).  Isopropyl alcohol will remove some of the adhesive deposits left on glass or plastic surfaces.  (It doesn’t always work.  My solvent of last resort for label adhesives is parafin.  I use a clear, unscented lamp oil because it evaporates without leaving a residue, in much the same way as isopropyl alcohol.)

 

Curiously, although isopropyl alcohol and water mix freely in any proportions, isopropyl alcohol doesn’t mix with water containing common salt.  Adding some salt to any mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water causes the alcohol to separate out of the mixture.  The alcohol is less dense than the brine, so floats on the top.  This is a process called “salting out”.  Of course I tried it at home …

It took a lot of salt to persuade the alcohol to separate out, and a little vegetable dye to make the boundary between the layers visible in a photo.  The proportions of the layers suggest that the brine (on the bottom) still contains some alcohol.

Drying aid

Isopropyl alcohol mixes with water, and the mixture has a much lower surface tension than water.  So adding isopropyl alcohol to water causes droplets to collapse and the resulting mixture evaporates faster than the water would if left untreated.

I put a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into glass bottles after I’ve washed them, then give them a shake.  The inside of the bottles dries faster.

Image of Swim-eze bottleThere is a product called Swim-eze that is used by swimmers and divers to dry and disinfect their ears afer swimming or diving.  A few drops in each ear is very effective.  A 30ml bottle of Swim-eze sells for around GBP 12.00.  That’s GBP 400.00 per litre.  The content?  Just 95% isopropyl alcohol and 5% glycerine.

Perfumes and Cosmetics

Although I’ve seen isopropyl alcohol listed as a cosmetic ingredient for lotions and aftershaves, I don’t generally use it as an ingredient in my preparations.  Mostly I prefer to use ethanol as a lighter alternative.

There is just one exception (Frog’s Breath) which I’ll save for a later post.

That is not to say that I don’t use isopropyl alcohol when I’m making cosmetics – I use it as a disinfectant and a solvent for cleaning before and after a making session.  The heavier essential oils are very viscous and some are very sticky.  They coat the surface of droppers and pipettes.  With a little persistence it is possible to remove the deposits with isopropyl alcohol.

Cautions

Isopropyl alcohol is toxic if ingested in any quantity, and it’s flammable.

 

 

Imbolc Handcreme #14

Snowdrops
Snowdrops

This is my goto recipe for a handcreme (“Handcreme #14”).  I produce it with different blends of essential oils to reflect the seasons.  This version celebrates the land waking up at the end of Winter.  I’ve called it Imbolc.

Imbolc falls around the 1st of February in the Northern Hemisphere.  It celebrates the first stirrings of Spring as the days become perceptably longer.

Although I normally describe this as a handcreme, its use isn’t limited to hands.  It’s a classic cold cream that is suitable for hands, face or any other skin that may be prone to dryness.   Rosemary Gladstar gives the proportions of ingredients in a cold cream in her book Herbal Healing for Women.  She called her version her Famous Face Cream:

“The basic proportions of this cream recipe should be about one part group 1 (oil phase) to one part group 2 (water phase).

“In group 1, the oil proportions should be approximately 2 parts liquid oils (such as grapeseed, almond, apricot) to 1 part solid oil (cocoa butter, beeswax, lanolin).”

My Heavy Duty Handcreme #21 is another example of a cold cream.

The ingredients, equipment and method I use to make Handcreme #14 are:

Oil Phase
  • 150ml  Sweet Almond Oil
  • 75ml  Coconut Oil
  • 30g  Beeswax
  • 20g  Shea Butter
  • 7.5ml  Lanolin
Water Phase
  • 150ml  Distilled Witch Hazel
  • 75ml  Aloe Vera Gel
Cool Down
  • 7.5m  Vitamin E oil
  • 20-30 drops of essential oils (see later in this post for the Imbolc blend).
Equipment
  • Two heaproof glass containers, one with a capacity of al least 500ml and the second with a capacity of at least 250ml.  (I use Pyrex jugs.  Mason Jars are also suitable.)
  • An electric oven capable of being set to a temperature of 60-70C, or a shallow pan wide enough to accept the glass containers and a kitchen stove electric hob or gas ring
  • A hand blender or whisk
  • Clean jars for the handcreme
  • Spatula(s)
  • Cloths or paper towels for cleanup.
Method
  1. Measure out your oil phase ingredients into the largest of your two glass containers, and measure out the water phase ingredients into the other glass container.  Put a stirrer into the container with the oils – a spatula or spoon.
  2. Heat the ingredients until all the solid oils and waxes melt.  Either;
    • Put the containers into an electric oven set to about 70C, or;
    • Put the containers in a shallow pan and surround them with water.  Bring the water to the boil on a stove top and reduce the heat so the water simmers gently.
  3. Prepare your containers.
  4. When the solid oils and waxes have melted, take the containers out of the oven or off the stove.  Stir the oils (remembering that the stirrer will be quite hot).
  5. Put your blender or whisk into a pot of hot water to preheat it.
  6. When you start to see the oils solidifying, put your blender or whisk in the container with them.  Whisk or blend as you add the water phase ingredients, keeping use of the whisk or blender to a minimum.
  7. Briefly whisk or blend as the mixture cools.  When it gets to around 40C (when the container will still be warm to touch but not too hot to hold comfortably) add the cool-down ingredients and whisk or blend briefly for the final time.
  8. Pour and scrape your cream into your containers.
  9. Label the containers and keep them in a refrigerator until you want to use your handcreme.
  10. Clean up with hot, soapy water.
Handcreme in containers, labelled and with information slips
Imbolc Handcreme #14

I’ve used Handcreme #14 as the basis of a number of seasonal cosmetics.  In December I added my Yule blend of oils.

For the Imbolc version I started with an Imbolc blend proposed by Amy Blackthorn.  (The blend is published in Amy’s book Blackthorn’s Botanical Magic.)  Amy’s blend has  a base/heart note of Angelica Root, with  heart notes of Basil and head notes of Laurel.  I modified Amy’s blend by adding Tobacco Absolute, Violet Leaf Absolute and a goodly dose of Fir Needle.  I aimed to develop a fragrance with green notes throughout.  I’m quite happy with the results – I developed this blend in 2019 and re-used it this year without modification.

Head notes
  • 16 drops Fir Needle Essential Oil
  • 8 drops Laurel Essential Oil
Heart notes
  • 8 drops Violet Leaf Absolute
  • 8 drops Basil Essential Oil
Bass notes
  • 8 drops Angelica Root Essential Oil
  • 4 drops Tobacco Absolute

To end on a cautionary note – neat essential oils can be highly corrosive.  With very few exceptions they should never be applied to skin unless diluted.  I first made this blend last year in a laboratory grade plastic test tube,  intending to add it to handcreme a few days later.  When I came to use it, the interior of the tube was etched and the base was crazed and cracked.  I mixed up some more in a glass container for my batch of handcreme!

Plastic test tube etched and cracked by essential oils
Cautionary tale of effects of essential oils on plastic