A Sticky Situation

One of the consequences of making things with oils and herbs is that you acquire a collection of bottles and jars.  When you find potential containers for your ingredients and creations, many of them come with unwanted labels.

Image by Roy Hinchliffe, Shutterstock

Removing labels from jars and bottles is a chore.  I’ll return to the subject with some of my techniques, but first here’s a story that has just a passing relevance to the subject.

Internment

During 09 and 10 August 1971 the British Army seized 342 people suspected of involvement with the Irish Republican Army.  These people were imprisoned without trial in a makeshift concentration camp on the site of a former RAF station at Long Kesh, 10 miles West of Belfast.  All those arrested were Irish Nationalists and, with few exceptions, Catholic.  The operation was justified by the Northern Ireland and British Governments as a measure to reduce the incidence of violence in the Province of Northern Ireland.  No Protestant Ulster Loyalists were arrested, although Loyalist paramilitaries also routinely carried out acts of violence.  The arrests lead to mass protests and a sharp increase in sectarian violence.

Internment continued until 05 December 1975 when the last 46 internees were released.  The total number of internees was 1,981, of whom 1,874 were Catholic/Republican and 107 were Protestant/Loyalist.

During the years following 1971 the site at Long Kesh was developed with new prison blocks and a perimeter wall.  In plan the new prison blocks resembled a letter ‘H’.  They were colloquially known as ‘The H Blocks’.  The site was renamed as Her Majesty’s Prison Maze.  By the end of internment many who had been interned had stood trial and been convicted of crimes relating to civil violence.  These prisoners were accorded Special Category Status and held in the H Blocks.

HMP Maze H Blocks – Image from Alchetron

Loyalist Prison Officers contrasted the Special Category Prisoners with what they called “Ordinary Decent Criminals”.  In 1978 a group of Special Category Prisoners refused to wear prison uniforms, claiming that they were political prisoners rather than criminals.  They were denied their own clothes, so wore only blankets.  They refused to leave their cells to wash or use a lavatory, smearing their own excrement on the walls of their cells.  This became known as the “Dirty Protest”.

When the wind changes

HMP Maze. Image from Wikimedia Commons.

I spent 4½ months in 1978 on a tour of active duty in Northern Ireland.  My unit was tasked with guarding HMP Maze.  It was rare that anyone asked what we were guarding against, and there was never an answer to the question.  As we battled the boredom of hours spent in watchtowers we were ignorant of the violence that the Loyalist Prison Officers inflicted on Republican prisoners in the H Blocks.  The level of violence caused the European Court of Human Rights to censure the British Government for “cruel, inhuman and degrading treatment”.  The Dirty Protest was, in part, a response by prisoners to being beaten senseless by Prison Officers if they left their cells to use showers or lavatories.

The stench from the H Blocks was extreme.  A change in the wind direction brought little relief.  When we were not downwind of the H Blocks, we were downwind of the nearby glue factory.  The factory made glue by boiling up animal bones from meat-processing plants.  The smell from the factory chimneys was at least as vile as the smell emanating from the H Blocks, and possibly more pervasive.

Both the prison and the glue factory are closed now.

Which brings us back to glue, and labels, and jars and bottles.

Soaking off the Labels

The glue from the Belfast glue factory was water-soluble.  Water-soluble glue was extensively used on labels, as it was on postage stamps.  Stamp collectors separated postage stamps from envelopes by immersing them in water.  Anyone wanting to re-use a glass bottle or jam-jar could use the same method.  The label normally drifted off the glass and remained intact at the bottom of the bowl of water.

Most modern glues are based on petrochemicals.

Sometimes a simple soaking still works.  It’s worth an attempt.  If it doesn’t work, then I start to work through some other techniques.

Other Techniques

Here’s how I set about removing labels…

Plastic Labels

Plastic labels are stronger than paper ones, so I can often lift a corner and peel off the whole label:

Often there’s a sticky residue left where the label has been removed.  Sometimes the residue covers the whole area that the label covered.  In this case it just leaves a few sticky patches:

The sticky residue can be removed using solvents, which I’ll discuss further down this post.

Paper Labels

It might be possible to lift a corner and peel off a paper label.  It’s rare.  The difficulty arises because the glue holds the label to surface more securely than the fibres in the paper stick to each other.  Instead of the paper coming off the surface, the paper splits internally.  One layer of paper comes away, and the other remains stuck to the glue:

I can usually remove most of the paper by scraping with a knife, but there comes a moment when the effort that I’m expending doesn’t seem to be reflected in what I’m removing.  If I haven’t soaked the label in water before, this is when I soak it for a while and then try to scrape off some more of the paper.

Glue Residues

After a combination of peeling, scraping and soaking there is invariably something still stuck to my bottle or jar.  There is always a glue residue.  Sometimes there’s still some stubborn paper as well:

The solution to removing glue and paper residues is to find an effective solvent.

Solvents

I’ve already used the most readily available solvent – water.  Here are three more to try:

Alcohol

Alcohol mixes well with water (and other things!).  If I can’t remove a residue with water, experience tells me that I’m unlikely to be able to remove it with alcohol.

I still think alcohol deserves a mention here.  Once I’ve managed to remove most of a glue residue, there are usually dull smear marks on the surface.  A little alcohol on cotton wool or kitchen paper will remove the smears and leave the surface sparkling.

I use Isopropyl Alcohol.  It’s cheap, effective, and it has other uses besides polishing up surfaces.  Vodka or gin would work, but they are subject to duty and so they are more expensive.  They too have other uses.

Acetone

Outside industrial contexts, acetone is most familiar as the active ingredient in nail polish remover.  It’s the only ingredient in most nail polish removers.  You can buy 15ml of branded nail polish remover for about GBP 8.  That works out at over GBP 500 for a litre of acetone.  Alternatively, you can buy a litre of generic acetone for about GBP 10.

Acetone is highly flammable.  it is normally very effective at removing glue residues.  However, in addition to its flammability it has two other drawbacks:

While it is safe to use acetone on glass or ceramic surfaces, it is definitely not safe to use on plastic or resin surfaces.  Acetone is just as effective a solvent for plastics and resins as it is for glue residues.

The smell!  Acetone belongs to the family of chemicals called ketones.  It has a smell reminiscent of the sweets called pear drops, but the smell is much more powerful.

Paraffin

Paraffin is my solvent of choice for removing glue residues.

The fact that paraffin is used as a fuel indicates that it is flammable.

Once paraffin was extensively used in the UK as a fuel for domestic heating.  Although domestic paraffin heaters and paraffin heaters for greenhouses are still advertised, I can’t remember the last time I saw either of the iconic brands Esso Blue or Pink Paraffin offered for sale.

The paraffin sold for heating suffers from one of the drawbacks of acetone.  It has a pervasive and unpleasant smell.  Fortunately, there is a version of paraffin that doesn’t have such a pervasive odour, and it’s readily available.

The paraffin I use is sold as lamp oil, for use in decorative oil-lamps.  There are scented and unscented, clear and coloured versions available.  I use the unscented and uncoloured version which I can buy by the litre for about GBP 7.  I’ve been using this bottle for a while:

I find a litre bottle is a bit unwieldy when I only use enough to moisten a small piece of absorbent paper at any one time.  I’ve decanted some into a 50ml laboratory reagent bottle for regular use, and to limit the amount of flammable liquid that I keep in the house:

Paraffin removes most glue residues.  I soak a small piece of kitchen paper with paraffin.  I use that to wet the glue residue and any remaining paper that is stuck to the surface I’m trying to clean.  After that it’s just a case of rubbing with the moistened paper to clean the surface.  The paraffin eventually evaporates completely and the surface is ready for a final polish with a little alcohol.

Other Techniques

I take the attitude that there is only so much effort I’m prepared to expend to remove a label.  If a label won’t yield to my regime of soaking, scraping and solvents, then I tend to give up and find a more productive use of my time.  However, I can imagine a situation when a jar or bottle was just too good to abandon, despite a very stubborn label.

There are a couple of other approaches that have been recommended, and that have some credibility.  I haven’t tried them (yet), but you might find them useful or interesting.

Heat

Glue may melt if it is heated.  So a glue that doesn’t soften when it is soaked in cold or warm water might be susceptible to softening in hot or boiling water.

It may also be possible to soften glue, and particularly glue residues, using dry heat.  I might try putting the jars or bottles in an oven, or I could use the heat gun I use to even up the surface of container candles:

The reason I avoid using high temperatures to remove labels is that I’m averse to burning my fingers.  Once I’d got a label or residue hot, I’d still have to peel or scrape it.  I think that would be difficult when wearing heat-proof gloves.

Peanut Butter

I don’t regularly keep peanut butter in the house.  If I did I would be tempted to try using it to remove glue residues from glass or ceramic surfaces.  The vegetable oil in peanut butter could be an effective solvent for petrochemical glue, and the ground peanuts would act as an abrasive paste to clean the surface.

Concentration

What’s in the bottle?

Apart from a cute bottle, what do you get when you buy a bottle of fragrance?  I thought it might be useful to compare the offerings.

A carrier will make up the largest proportion of all the ingredients in a fragrance.  This benefits the seller economically because carrier will be the cheapest ingredient, but it also benefits the consumer.  The fragrant ingredients, whether natural essential oils or synthetic fragrance oils, are highly concentrated.  With very few exceptions, they should not be applied to skin unless they have been diluted in some way.

In the Western world the overwhelming proportion of fragrances are alcohol based.  Oil-based perfumes, including solid perfumes, are much more common in the Middle East.  This may have something to do with religious objections to handling alcohol, but oil-based fragrances can also be better suited to hotter, drier climates.

Alcohol-based fragrances

The alcohol that is used as a carrier for fragrances is normally ethanol.  Ethanol evaporates quickly and does not have a particularly strong odour of its own.  It does not leave a residue on fabrics.  It can be used on hair in cultures that do not normally use oil as a hair cosmetic.

There will typically be about 5 – 10% water in the alcohol base of a fragrance.  The alcohol may be denatured (cut with a very small amount of very unpalatable substances) to avoid alcohol duties.  It may also contain small quantities of other substances, for example to stabilise the mixture of alcohol and the fragrance ingredients.

Commercial fragrances should show the percentage alcohol on the packaging.  It’s normally on the back or the bottom of the box.  This is from a Penhalligon’s fragrance:

Assuming that the base alcohol used in the fragrance will contain about 5% water, in this Penhalligon’s fragrance the aromatic content is likely to be 15% or slightly less.

The definitions of the categories of alcohol-based fragrances do not appear to be regulated.  I believe these descriptions to be representative:

Eau de Cologne

Eau de Cologne is the lightest, least concentrated of alcohol-based fragrances.  It typically comprises 1% – 5% fragrant ingredients.  In this image, 2% of the volume of the bottle has been filled with coloured liquid (red wine):

Eau de Toilette

Eau de Toilette can contain anything from 5% – 15% fragrant ingredients, but I believe the concentration most often falls in the 4% – 8% range.  In this image, 6% of the volume of the bottle has been filled with coloured liquid:

Eau de Parfum

Eau de Parfum Normally contains 15% – 20% fragrant ingredients.  Here 15% of the volume of the bottle has been filled with coloured liquid:

Perfume

Perfume, sometimes called Perfume Extract, typically contains around 20% fragrant ingredients.  The range can vary from 15% up to 40%.

Oil based and solid perfumes

Alcohol-based fragrances make up the majority of the output of Western perfume houses.  These are the brands that dominate the ground floor of department stores and the advertising revenues of fashion magazines.  A few indie perfumers market oil-based fragrances, often alongside a range of alcohol-based offerings.  Of these, some offer the same range as either alcohol-based or oil-based.  Solid perfumes are a still smaller niche of the market.  Solid perfumes are oil-based with the addition of a little wax.

While cosmetics and perfumes are heavily regulated in the West, this is not true in the rest of the world.  In many nations there is no obligation to provide a list of ingredients, and the use of synthetic fragrances is common.  Many of these are stronger than their natural equivalents, and cheaper.

I haven’t found any oil-based equivalent to the Eau de Cologne – Eau de Toilette – Eau de Parfum – Perfume levels of concentration in alcohol-based fragrances.   So I asked four perfume companies a direct question about the proportion of aromatics and carrier oil in their products.  I have examples of the products from all four companies.  They differ greatly, but I like them all.  All four companies answered me very promptly, for which I am grateful.  There is a striking difference between the answers from the Western and Eastern traditions.  I’ll let you form your own opinions about them:

Western

The owners of two indie perfume companies in Europe answered my question:

Francesca Bianchi is based in Holland.  She stressed that her oils were intended for body and hair, containing smaller quantities of concentrates than a perfume for more topical use.  However, many people use these oils in the same way that they might use an alcohol-based perfume.  She gave the proportion of aromatics in her oils as “around 5%”.

Christina Pandolfo Is the owner of Plenilunium Botanica based in Wales, in Bridgend. (Plenilunium Botanica is a very new brand at the time of writing (Spring 2021) and Christina is still trading through the Domina Lunae Apothecary websitesite.)  Christina was concerned to stress the need to dilute essential oils because it is not safe to use them neat.  She quoted a proportion of 6-7 drops in 10ml of carrier oil, which by my reckoning works out at around 3%.

Eastern

Representatives of two companies specialising in Eastern perfume oils gave answers in stark contrast to the Western perfumers:

Luxury Scent is a company based in Newcastle-upon-Tyne in the Northeast of England.  The company markets imported perfume oils.  Their response to my question was:

“20/30% is the lowest essence in our oils, most of them are higher than that and some of them absolutely essence.”

Aromatan Cosmetics is based in India, in Mumbai.  It is the office of a perfumery in the Arabic tradition called Dukhni.  Taha Nabee responded from their Customer Service:

“Typically the dilution % ranges between 20‐40% of pure concentrates”.

Darkness and Light

“Lighten our darkness, we beseech Thee O Lord. “

– Evening Prayer, the Third Collect, for Aid against all Perils,
The Book of Common Prayer and administration
of the sacraments and other rites and ceremoniesof the Church
according to the use of The Church of England.

No, NO, NO!

I’d like to keep my darkness, thank you very much!

It’s early December. The sun set a couple of hours ago. It’s been a day of drizzling rain driven by a cold breeze. The rain has held off since sunset, but the temperature is around 5C. Four people sit around a small wood fire in a patch of woodland. The surrounding woodland softens the breeze, but it’s still brisk enough to make the embers glow. Eyes glisten in the firelight. Soft voices and gentle laughter barely rise above the crackling of the fire. The trees seem to converge above us, just slightly darker than the overcast sky.

Dave Porter Photography/Shutterstock

At this moment, there is nowhere I’d rather be than in this darkness. Darkness sharpens my appreciation of the light of day. The daylight deepens my appreciation of the night.

A rambling story

Route 65M, the road along the Western bank of the Red Sea in Egypt, goes from Hurghada in the North to the Sudanese border in the South. Inland of the road there is desert. On the other side there are beaches and coves, and the Red Sea. About 140 Km South of the airport at Hurghada you can find Roots Dive Camp. The nearest town is El Qoseir, another 14 Km further South.

Roots offers wonderful SCUBA diving in the Red Sea. Other than that, the camp is simple and comfortable. The food is similarly simple, but the chef worked out the causes of Pharaoh’s Revenge a long time ago, so this is one place in Egypt where there is no fear of tummy upsets. Evening meals are normally taken in the camp, but about once a week everyone makes the short trek across the road to the beach for a barbecue.

After one such barbecue, L and I made our way across the road and back to the camp. L looked up and gasped:

“What’s THAT?”

“It’s the Milky Way.” I said. I just managed to stop myself from saying: “It’s the Milky Way, Silly!” because it really wasn’t a silly question at all.

inigocia/Shutterstock

After gazing at the sky in wonder until our necks were sore, we made our way back to our room. Along the way I worked out that this was the first time I’d seen the Milky Way since camping out in Northern Europe in the 1980s. Before that, it had been a common sight in the rural Midlands of England when I was a child. L was brought up in a town on the South coast of England and she had never seen the Milky Way. During our lifetimes, our darkness has been lightened.

Black and White

It’s nice to have certainty. It’s nice to be able to say: “This is good” or “This is bad”. It’s nice to be able to take any set of polar opposites and assign them as good and bad. It’s nice to see things as black and white. White is good; black is bad. Light is good; dark is bad. Positive is good; negative is bad. Four legs good; two legs bad. Right is right; left is wrong. I’m right; you’re wrong. East; West. Female; male. Continue ad absurdum…

“Without darkness there’s no light”

Peter Sarstedt.

He had a point. We could not imagine white if black did not exist. I’ve tried to define white without reference to black, and it doesn’t really work. The easiest definition, and the first that comes to mind is “the opposite of black”.

So black and white are different. They depend upon each other for their existence. In the symbol of Yin and Yang they are equal, opposite, interconnected, and each contains a little of the other. There’s so much concentrated in a simple, familiar symbol.

Navitas/CleanPNG
Darkness and Light
Yayayoyo/Shutterstock

The cartoon image of a burglar resonates with us. He wears a striped sweater and a mask across his eyes. He carries a flashlight and a swag bag. He comes in darkness.

Real burglars don’t wear striped sweaters or carry bags labelled “swag”. They realise that wearing a mask or waving around a flashlight is the quickest way to signal their ill intentions. They are more likely to telephone you or send you an email than to attempt to enter your home in person. And if they do intend to break and enter, they’ll probably do it in daylight when there’s plenty of other activity to distract from what they are doing.

We buy Security Lights and use them to surround our property. The association of words, “security” and “light” resonates with us because we still believe in the cartoon burglar. We think the (good) light will dispel the (bad) darkness and all the bad things we associate with it. To a real burglar the security lights say: “Look, I’ve got something you might want to steal. Come back when there’s no-one around, and you won’t trip over anything when you approach.”

More rambling stories – (1) Bonaire
frantisekhojd/Shutterstock

For anyone who has dived on a tropical reef and marvelled at the diversity of life it supports, it’s a real treat to dive the reef at night. The reef takes on a different character at night. Corals bloom, and a different population of fish venture out in darkness. The beam of a torch focuses attention on a relatively small area, and it reflects rich colours that are muted by sunlight during the day. Many of the nocturnal creatures venture out under cover of darkness to escape the predators that hunt in daylight.

Tarpons are large fish, growing to lengths of up to 2.4 metres. They bear some resemblance to mackerel, but on a much larger scale. Two tarpons lived around the dock at a dive resort in Bonaire called Cap’n Don’s Habitat. Nicknamed Charlene and Charlie, they were 1.5 metres and 2 metres long. They would shadow divers on the reef at night, holding position slightly above and behind where the divers couldn’t see them. They used the light of divers’ torches to hunt. It’s a little disconcerting when a fish that’s as big as you speeds past your shoulder in the dark.

Yes, there are predators in the darkness. They pay little attention to other creatures in the darkness. They are looking into the light to identify their prey.

More rambling stories – (2) London

On 24 Nov 17, a Friday at the height of the Christmas shopping season in London, reports of terrorist attacks threw London City Centre into a panic. The stories of attacks centred on London Underground stations. They were all too plausible, especially for those who remembered the attacks that took place on 07 July 2005, the so-called 7/7 attacks. In a mass panic people fled the area around Underground stations and the stores in London’s West End.

L and I were in London on that Friday evening. We heard the news while we were on Piccadilly. Our train home was scheduled to leave Paddington station a couple of hours later. Our route by Underground would have taken us through the areas affected by the supposed attacks, so we elected to walk. We planned a circuitous route avoiding the prime shopping areas of Regent Street and Oxford Street, Liberty’s and Selfridge’s.

Image by Winter Wonderland

Our route took us through Hyde Park. Part of the park was accommodating Winter Wonderland, a combination of funfair and a Christmas market. Winter Wonderland was brightly lit. As we skirted round the market, I stepped off the wide pathway into the shadows of the trees that lined it. Crowding in the light didn’t feel safe. If there was anyone about with ill intent, I didn’t want to be an illuminated target. From the shadows, I could see without being seen. I was with the predators, not their prey.

“Hello Darkness, my old friend”

– Paul Simon

 

Frog’s Breath

(Insect Repellent)

Cathy Keifer/Shutterstock

One of the consequences of making cosmetics and perfumes at home is that you start to acquire a collection of bottles.  You never throw out a bottle that might be useful, or decorative.  There is a reason for you to rummage through charity shops and flea markets.  You struggle to find storage space for an ever expanding selection of oil bottles, lab reagent bottles, coloured bottles, decorated bottles, poison bottles, perfume bottles, hand-blown bottles, and bottles with no discernible purpose.

My collection contained one quite plain bottle with a label proclaiming that the content was Frog’s Breath.

It occurred to me that Frog’s Breath would be a most appropriate name for an insect repellent.  For the grammar nerds, the reasoning includes subjunctive and conditional verbs:

If a fly were to feel the breath of a frog it would want to depart in haste.

I really dislike using DEET based insect repellents.  The smell is something I really dislike, and it makes me sneeze.  I can’t enjoy eating out of doors in the presence of the smell of DEET.  I’ve found Frog’s Breath is as effective as DEET, and I can tailor the smell of Frog’s Breath to be reasonably pleasant.  I’ve successfully used Frog’s Breath to deter mosquitos, ticks, and the sand flies that are too small to see but which cause misery by attacking feet and ankles.

Making Frog’s Breath

I don’t really have a specific recipe for my Frog’s Breath.  It has just two ingredients:

Isopropyl Alcohol (70% by volume with water)
A selection of essential oils.

Most airlines will allow you to carry small quantities of liquids containing up to 70% alcohol in cabin and hold luggage.  Higher concentrations have a lower flash point, meaning they catch fire more easily, and airlines may refuse to carry them.

I aim for the essential oil content to be about 5%, so 5 ml of essential oils to 95 ml of alcohol.  Approximately 100 drops of oil is 5 ml.

Choosing Essential Oils

The choice of essential oils can be almost arbitrary, but here are a few considerations:

The mixture will be sprayed directly onto skin.  If you are aware that your skin is sensitive to any oil, avoid adding it to your insect repellent.

I don’t know of any essential oil that attracts insects.  Most are effective repellents.

Phototoxicity

Some essential oils are phototoxic.  In very simple terms that means that they have the direct opposite effect to sunscreen – they decrease the amount of time you can safely spend in the sun when applied to your skin.  The effect is minimal at low concentrations.  I’ve used small quantities of some of the potentially phototoxic oils listed below, but I’d advise you to avoid them if you have very fair or sensitive skin:

Angelica root
Bergamot
Cassia
Cumin
Ginger
Lemon
Lime
Lovage
Mandarin
Orange
Verbena.

Making Frog’s Breath is an opportunity to use up the last few drops of oil in a bottle, or to turnover stocks of oils that may be starting to deteriorate.  Here’s a list of the oils used in one batch of Frog’s Breath:

Oils that are Head Notes in perfumery are less persistent.  Try to include Heart Notes and Base Notes so that your insect repellent is effective for longer and you don’t need to re-apply it so frequently.

Patchouli is an effective insect repellent, a Base Note, and manages to harmonise the most unlikely mixtures of essential oils into something that smells better than an unplanned hodge-podge.  It’s also one of the less expensive essential oils.  I aim to include 30% to 50% patchouli in the oils in my Frog’s Breath.

I have a small bottle of isopropyl alcohol that I use to rinse droppers and pipettes that I’ve used for essential oils.  When the alcohol starts to get a bit murky and droplets of oil collect on the surface, I replace the alcohol in the bottle and keep the used alcohol for making insect repellent.

It’s very likely that some of the oils will settle on the surface of the alcohol, especially if you include heavier Base Notes like patchouli.  This isn’t a problem because you can disperse the oils through the alcohol by shaking the bottle before use.

Using Frog’s Breath

I decant my insect repellent into 50 ml bottles for use.  I put a screw top on the bottles for travelling, and carry a spray top to use when I get to my destination.

To use Frog’s Breath, first shake the bottle to disperse the oils in the alcohol.  Avoid getting it in your eyes while spraying it onto your skin or in your hair.  It should be okay to spray it onto clothing, particularly natural fibres.  Some technical fabrics may show traces of oils, so probably best to avoid spraying them unless you can test where an oil stain won’t show.

 

Sloe Gin

It’s nearing the end of July, and already there are ripening sloes in the hedgerows.  It’s time to decant the sloe gin I made last year so I can re-use the bottles.  Last year’s makings have a deep ruby colour.

 

Sloes are the fruit of the blackthorn bush prunus spinosa.  They are small, a blue shade of purple when ripe, often with a white bloom on the surface.  They are very bitter to taste, and that’s why the only common use for them is making sloe gin.

Ripe sloes on a blackthorn bush
Awe Inspiring Images/Shutterstock

Making sloe gin is not difficult.  While many recipes suggest you can make it in the Autumn and it will be ready to drink by the end of December, I prefer to leave mine to macerate for just under a year.  This year I will drink the sloe gin I made last year, and perhaps some will find its way as presents to a favoured few.  Last year I struggled to find the sloes to make a modest quantity of sloe gin, so any recipients this year will be very favoured!

My recipe is very easy to remember:

A pound of sugar, to
A pound of sloes, to
A (20 ounce UK) pint of gin.

If you are making your sloe gin in 750 ml or 700 ml bottles, that scales down for each bottle to:

200 g of sugar, to
200 g of sloes, to
250 ml of gin.

Tradition has it that the sloes are best picked after the first frost.  It is also traditional to prepare the sloes by pricking each one six times with a needle.  I feel no need to follow these traditions.  There are easier ways of doing things.

I pick the sloes when the flesh gives slightly when they are squeezed.  You could taste one, but they are seriously bitter, even when fully ripe.

I offer three ways to prepare the fruit so the skins are broken and the sugar and gin can penetrate.:

One.  Take each individual sloe and prick it with a needle (for the traditionalists).

Two.  Lay the sloes out on a tray and hit them with a clean wire brush (the sort used for cleaning barbecque grills).  Theraputic.

Three.   Freeze the sloes, thereby simulating the first frost and splitting their skin so the sugar and gin can penetrate.

After that, the preparation is very easy.  Put measured quantities of sloes, sugar and gin into glass bottles, leaving a small airspace so you can shake the bottles and agitate the contents.

Sloes plus sugar
Sloes plus sugar plus gin
Sloes plus sugar plus gin after first shaking.

Store the bottles away from direct sunlight, but not so well hidden that you forget to shake them about once a week for the first couple of months.

The next day

Give them the occasional shake until you are ready to harvest sloes the following year.  Then strain the liquid from the fruit:

I know of people who remove the stones from the fruit and use it as you might use dried fruit in cereal or a pudding.  I compost the remains because I find the task of removing the stones rather fussy, and I’m not sufficiently enthusiastic about eating the soused fruit remains.

After letting any sediment settle out, decant the liquid into bottles:

The blackthorn bushes are laden with much more fruit than last year, and the fruit is almost ripe.  It seems the hedgerows contain more fruit of many types this year.  I’m hoping for a bumper crop, for me and for the wildlife that depends upon the hedgerows.

How We Smell

“I say, I say, I say!  My dog’s got no nose!”
“How does he smell?”
“Terrible!”

Music Hall joke from the 1930s

Alina Odryna/Shutterstock
Humans versus Dogs

If you have read anything about the human sense of smell, it has probably been compared unfavourably with that of a dog.  When you get past the hyperbole (10,000 times better, 100,000 times better) you may find more consistently quoted comparisons.  A dog, apparently, has 30 million olfactory receptors where humans have only 6 million.  The part of a dog’s brain that processes odours is 40 times larger than that of a human, apparently.

Recent studies have challenged this received wisdom.  The idea that a dog’s sense of smell is so superior was first published in 1879, and since then most comparisons have been subject to confirmation bias.  CBC recently reported a study by John McGann, of Rutgers University-New Brunswick, which concluded that humans could track scents well.  It concluded that: “It can be said that we are as good as, but not the same as, our canine companions”.

McGann’s study engaged 32 human volunteers to track a scent whilst blindfolded and wearing earmuffs, thick gloves and padded kneepads to limit input from other senses.  The volunteers tracked the scent across the ground while on all fours.  Two thirds of them “did pretty well”.

Why we smell

Most animals rely on a sense of smell to:

      • Detect danger
      • Find water
      • Find food
      • Find a mate
      • Determine if a potential mate or rival is in season.

Humans are still equipped with a sense of smell capable of all these things.  It’s just that at some point in our evolution we started walking upright.  Our noses were no longer close to the ground to find water or food, and they weren’t on the same level as our genitals to guide us to a suitable mate.   We came to rely  on sight as our primary sense and disregarded smell.  Now, if somebody is physically incapable of detecting and identifying smells, we don’t even consider it a disability.

Our sense of smell begins to develop in the womb.  Immediately after birth it is our most developed sense, guiding us to food.  As adults, our sense of smell is usually more reliable than a “sell by date” as a means of determining whether food is fit for consumption.

As we develop, our sense of smell can still warn of danger (for example by smelling gas, or smelling fire). The expression “something smells” is used in connection with situations that don’t feel right, for example when we suspect a scam.

Most women have a better sense of smell than most men.  The sensitivity of a woman’s sense of smell varies during her menstrual cycle.  A few people, male and female, have a much more acute sense than the majority.  Some have little to no sense of smell at all.  Although women generally have a superior sense of smell, many perfumiers, “the noses”, are men.

How we smell

Our senses of smell and taste are closely linked, and the brain processes them in similar ways.  Our other senses pass through a section of the brain called the thalamus.  The thalamus operates as a filter, reducing the level of “noise” that would otherwise disrupt our conscious thoughts.  Our sense of smell bypasses the thalamus.  If we detect a new smell, we know about it at once.  More than that, a new smell is instantly linked to our memories.  Anything we already know about it is immediately recalled. Smell is our most visceral sense, able to affect our emotions directly.

There is a strong link between smells and memory.    Although we are not aware of the background smells in our home, the distinctive collection of smells is imprinted on our memory.  If we leave home for a while, we become used to different smells as a background.  On our return we are briefly aware of the characteristic smell of our home.  If you visited a grandmother’s home as a child, you probably remember its distinctive smells.

Loss of sense of smell can be an early indicator of the onset of Alzheimer’s disease.

Smelling Good

Smell has a significant role in our selection of a mate, and how we engage them. Both our natural body odours and perfume play parts in this process. In the seventeenth century a woman might peel an apple and hold it under her armpit before sending it to a lover or prospective lover.  In modern western society, body odours are masked with deodorants which contain synthetic scents. Although these synthetics can mask natural body odours to our conscious mind, the odours are still present. We perceive them unconsciously and they affect our emotional responses.

Peeled Apple
Image TV/Shutterstock
Overload

We filter out smells that we have been experiencing for a while. We are not aware of background smells, only new ones as they appear. New smells may indicate danger, so grab our attention until we have identified them.  We are not interested in persistent background smells. That’s how we perceive stinky people but stinky people can live with themselves.

The ability to filter out persistent smells can be unhelpful for people who use their sense of smell constantly.  Perfumiers, sommeliers and people who taste tea or coffee to assess its quality need to keep their sense of smell engaged. One method of refreshing a sense of smell is to inhale through woollen fabric, the sheepier smelling the better.

It’s time to smell the coffee…

Shaving: The Costs

This post is in the category of Ramblings.  There is a serious point, but it takes the pretty route rather than the direct one.

There was once a bookshop in Cheltenham that sold books about cooking.  It sold new cookbooks and second-hand cookbooks, and it was called:

COOKING: THE BOOKS

The bookshop closed a few years ago.  Since the first time I saw the name I’ve been looking for an opportunity to adapt it.  Now I’ve found one.  I present:

SHAVING: THE COSTS

 

The road to enlightenment

Last year, when travel was commonplace, L and I travelled to Maui.  We had set ourselves the challenge of spending a minimum of one night in every State in the US.  After visiting 36 others, the time had come to visit Hawaii.  This was to be a one-State trip, more of a holiday and less of an expedition than most of its forerunners.

We based ourselves in one of the resort complexes to the South of Lahaina. We quickly remembered that we are not resort people.  The resort was relegated to a place to sleep while we spent the days elsewhere.  One day we went exploring along the sea front, through other resorts, around the golf courses and into Lahaina itself.  We made the banyan tree at the Northern end of Lahaina our destination, but sightseeing along the way was at least as important as finding the tree.

As we approached Lahaina, we passed a small shop that stocked swimwear.  The fabric used in the swimwear was manufactured using salvaged fishing nets as the raw material (Econyl).  The shop wasn’t open on our outward walk, but we planned to check it later to see if it contained a holiday treat for L.

We spent a little time in the shade of the Banyan tree.

Lahaina Banyan Tree
Wikimedia Commons/Gunther Tschuch

The shop was open as we headed back to the resort.  The proprietor discreetly extinguished a small spliff under the counter as we went in.  L spent some time trying on swimwear while I browsed the jewellery, Palo Santo sticks, and other items also on sale.  Among the items on display was a safety razor with a wooden handle.  Given the context, that razor was probably not destined to shave faces.  (I’ve recently seen an estimate that among women below the age of 45 in Europe and the US, fewer than 5% will allow hair to grow anywhere but on their heads.)

Let’s hold the idea of seeing a safety razor in Lahaina in 2019, and step back nearly half a century.

A modern history of shaving

In Autumn 1971 Gillette launched the first multi-blade razor.  It was known as the Trac II.  In England and Europe it was marketed as the G II. The concept was that the first blade passing over a hair follicle would pull the hair out as it cut it, and the second would cut off a little more before the hair retracted.  My father told me that this was nothing new – it was an old soldiers’ trick to put two worn-out blades into a safety razor to get a couple of extra shaves out of them.  (This saved money on razor blades which could more usefully be spent on beer.)

The launch of the G II in Europe only just preceded my entry into a profession that expected me to be clean shaven every day.  Like most of my generation and those that followed, I elected to use multi-blade cartridge razors.  I swallowed the marketing that pitched them as safer than the safety razors they replaced, and believed the claims they gave a closer shave.

The moment of resolution

Back in a swimwear shop in Lahaina in 2019 , a number of ideas were coming together.  I’d been uncomfortable for a while with the apparent cartels behind shaving products, but needed a nudge to attempt the switch to something unfamiliar.  I gave myself that nudge while L was trying on swimwear.  We left the shop with new swimwear for L and a few sticks of Palo Santo.  I left the razor in the shop to its fate, but took away a resolution.

Back at home, it was time to follow through on my resolution.  There are many good articles about switching to using a safety razor.  A quick internet search will turn up lots.  This is one that I liked.

Making the switch

I found a suitable razor (for GBP 15) and a supply of 100 blades (for GBP 8.50).  I determined to use the new razor for at least a month in case I found it difficult.

The safety razor comprises three parts, plus a blade:

I keep my used blades in a small tin that once contained mint sweets.  When it is full (in a few years’ time) I’ll just tape the tin shut and put it with scrap metal for recycling:

There was a little blood in the first week or two of shaving with the new razor, but nothing alarming.  After more than six months nothing would persuade me to use a cartridge blade razor again.  My morning shaving ritual is more mindful and a better start to the day.  That alone is powerful justification for making the switch, but it gets better.

Economics

In four months using a safety razor, I use 8 blades (one a fortnight).  That amounts to less than 5 grammes of scrap metal which is 100% recyclable.  Safety razor blades come packed in a tiny amount of paper and cardboard, and it is all recyclable.  Eight Gillette Fusion cartridge blades weigh more than 53 grammes with their plastic caddy.  The cartridges are made of mixed materials, plastic and metal, and probably end up in landfill because it’s not an economic proposition to separate the components.  They are sold in substantial mixed plastic and cardboard packaging which is also difficult to separate for recycling.

Four months’ supply of safety razor blades, and four months’ supply of cartridge blades.

There is more than a tenfold difference in the trash generated by cartridge blade razors and safety razors.  The difference in costs is even greater.  Cartridges cost about GBP 2 each (and some much more).  Safety razor blades can cost less than GBP 0.10 each (if you avoid the premium brands such as Gillette and Wilkinson Sword) and last about as long.  That means using cartridge blades is more than twenty times more expensive than using a safety razor.  Using a payback calculation,  I saved the GBP 15 that I paid for my new razor in less than 4 months.

I wonder if anyone bought that razor in Lahaina…